The boat that we are building is 3.5 meters and the standards length that ply comes in is 2.4 x 1.2 so in order to get the desired length we must joing together sheets of ply, this is best done by scarfing. This is when you plane both sides back a certain distance (in our case we used a 1:10 ratio) and then flip it over and fit the joint with epoxy. When we planed our joint we drew lines set and tried our best to plan to a 'feather edge' and not cross the line. This can be extremely tricky if you are not very careful. We laid the bow piece over the rest because it is the smaller piece and then cramped them both down, this makes the job twice as fast in half the time. If you look closely you can see that there is another piece of particle board on top of the bench that we are working on. This is because the bench does not have a sharp edge and if we were to work on it we could either damage the bench or chip off pieces of the ply that we are working with. The bench also has a removable center piece so when you need to cramp down both sides of your work you can. In the second photo you can see the top piece is nearly down and the bottom piece is not quite there. I took this photo before we finished it so that I could explain how you can tell if your joint is flush without hollows or bumps. You can see the straight lines that result from the different layers of ply being cut evenly across on the top and then on the bottom you can see the line wavers. The bottom board has a bump that still needs to be taken out. Looking at the next photo you can see how the joint is going to fit together. When we planed the joint we tried as hard as possible to get right up to that line and also not to chip off the feather edge but sometimes errors happen and you can see why it is important to be extra careful, because if there are imperfections like bumps, hollow, chips or over planing then the joint won't fit right. Another thing that you should have that is not apparent on these photos is straight lines that you can line up to put the boards back together. An easy way to do this is when you are dry fitting. Simply use your cutout to check for size and then draw straight lines on the ply to ensure that when you put them back together you wont mess up. When you remove the chance for error or decrease your need to think about every little step, that is good. Clovegro always says, "When you plan you become 10% quicker!" The boat that we are building is 3.5 meters and the standards length that ply comes in is 2.4 x 1.2 so in order to get the desired length we must joing together sheets of ply, this is best done by scarfing. This is when you plane both sides back a certain distance (in our case we used a 1:10 ratio) and then flip it over and fit the joint with epoxy. When we planed our joint we drew lines set and tried our best to plan to a 'feather edge' and not cross the line. This can be extremely tricky if you are not very careful. We laid the bow piece over the rest because it is the smaller piece and then cramped them both down, this makes the job twice as fast in half the time. If you look closely you can see that there is another piece of particle board on top of the bench that we are working on. This is because the bench does not have a sharp edge and if we were to work on it we could either damage the bench or chip off pieces of the ply that we are working with. The bench also has a removable center piece so when you need to cramp down both sides of your work you can. In the second photo you can see the top piece is nearly down and the bottom piece is not quite there. I took this photo before we finished it so that I could explain how you can tell if your joint is flush without hollows or bumps. You can see the straight lines that result from the different layers of ply being cut evenly across on the top and then on the bottom you can see the line wavers. The bottom board has a bump that still needs to be taken out. Looking at the next photo you can see how the joint is going to fit together. When we planed the joint we tried as hard as possible to get right up to that line and also not to chip off the feather edge but sometimes errors happen and you can see why it is important to be extra careful, because if there are imperfections like bumps, hollow, chips or over planing then the joint won't fit right. Another thing that you should have that is not apparent on these photos is straight lines that you can line up to put the boards back together. An easy way to do this is when you are dry fitting. Simply use your cutout to check for size and then draw straight lines on the ply to ensure that when you put them back together you wont mess up. When you remove the chance for error or decrease your need to think about every little step, that is good. Clovegro always says, "When you plan you become 10% quicker!" During the gluing stage we learned that you need to saturated end grain because the wood will soak up glue and pull it away from the joint, which can cause the scarf to split apart. I will discuss that more later with a video. After the glue is allowed to dry then you can lightly plane and sand the joint flat, being careful not to sand through the layers of glue that was applied to make the ply itself.
The boat that we are building is 3.5 meters and the standards length that ply comes in is 2.4 x 1.2 so in order to get the desired length we must joing together sheets of ply, this is best done by scarfing. This is when you plane both sides back a certain distance (in our case we used a 1:10 ratio) and then flip it over and fit the joint with epoxy. When we planed our joint we drew lines set and tried our best to plan to a 'feather edge' and not cross the line. This can be extremely tricky if you are not very careful. We laid the bow piece over the rest because it is the smaller piece and then cramped them both down, this makes the job twice as fast in half the time. If you look closely you can see that there is another piece of particle board on top of the bench that we are working on. This is because the bench does not have a sharp edge and if we were to work on it we could either damage the bench or chip off pieces of the ply that we are working with. The bench also has a removable center piece so when you need to cramp down both sides of your work you can. In the second photo you can see the top piece is nearly down and the bottom piece is not quite there. I took this photo before we finished it so that I could explain how you can tell if your joint is flush without hollows or bumps. You can see the straight lines that result from the different layers of ply being cut evenly across on the top and then on the bottom you can see the line wavers. The bottom board has a bump that still needs to be taken out. Looking at the next photo you can see how the joint is going to fit together. When we planed the joint we tried as hard as possible to get right up to that line and also not to chip off the feather edge but sometimes errors happen and you can see why it is important to be extra careful, because if there are imperfections like bumps, hollow, chips or over planing then the joint won't fit right. Another thing that you should have that is not apparent on these photos is straight lines that you can line up to put the boards back together. An easy way to do this is when you are dry fitting. Simply use your cutout to check for size and then draw straight lines on the ply to ensure that when you put them back together you wont mess up. When you remove the chance for error or decrease your need to think about every little step, that is good. Clovegro always says, "When you plan you become 10% quicker!" The boat that we are building is 3.5 meters and the standards length that ply comes in is 2.4 x 1.2 so in order to get the desired length we must joing together sheets of ply, this is best done by scarfing. This is when you plane both sides back a certain distance (in our case we used a 1:10 ratio) and then flip it over and fit the joint with epoxy. When we planed our joint we drew lines set and tried our best to plan to a 'feather edge' and not cross the line. This can be extremely tricky if you are not very careful. We laid the bow piece over the rest because it is the smaller piece and then cramped them both down, this makes the job twice as fast in half the time. If you look closely you can see that there is another piece of particle board on top of the bench that we are working on. This is because the bench does not have a sharp edge and if we were to work on it we could either damage the bench or chip off pieces of the ply that we are working with. The bench also has a removable center piece so when you need to cramp down both sides of your work you can. In the second photo you can see the top piece is nearly down and the bottom piece is not quite there. I took this photo before we finished it so that I could explain how you can tell if your joint is flush without hollows or bumps. You can see the straight lines that result from the different layers of ply being cut evenly across on the top and then on the bottom you can see the line wavers. The bottom board has a bump that still needs to be taken out. Looking at the next photo you can see how the joint is going to fit together. When we planed the joint we tried as hard as possible to get right up to that line and also not to chip off the feather edge but sometimes errors happen and you can see why it is important to be extra careful, because if there are imperfections like bumps, hollow, chips or over planing then the joint won't fit right. Another thing that you should have that is not apparent on these photos is straight lines that you can line up to put the boards back together. An easy way to do this is when you are dry fitting. Simply use your cutout to check for size and then draw straight lines on the ply to ensure that when you put them back together you wont mess up. When you remove the chance for error or decrease your need to think about every little step, that is good. Clovegro always says, "When you plan you become 10% quicker!" During the gluing stage we learned that you need to saturated end grain because the wood will soak up glue and pull it away from the joint, which can cause the scarf to split apart. I will discuss that more later with a video. After the glue is allowed to dry then you can lightly plane and sand the joint flat, being careful not to sand through the layers of glue that was applied to make the ply itself. 
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